Citizen Military Automatics - big, solid, and colorful!

These military automatic watches use the Miyota 8200 mentioned in my previous blog entry. The case has a nice 40mm diameter. It looks much more prominent and cheerful when compared to similar military design from Seiko. The crown is not of screw-down type and it is unsigned. The rated water resistance is 100 meter. The feel of the casing is heavy and solid. The crystal is slightly domed. It is mineral. All hands and the numeral on the dial have blue lume. Yes, that includes the second hand. The lume is on the small rectangular shape on the second hand. This reminds me of certain Ball model.

As you can see from the picture, there are many colors to choose from. I’m particularly fond of the camouflage one (NH7350-03YT). In real life, the strap appears a little bit silky and shiny (as oppose from matt that is typically expected of canvas). The shine is quite subtle.

There is also a bracelet version. I personally think the colored straps are more cheerful and fun. It is perfect as a traveling or outdoor watch.

Note: For more information about the Miyota 8200 movement. Please read my previous entry.

Specification
Diameter: 40mm (excluding crown)
Thickness: 11mm
Case: Stainless steel (brushed finish)
Crystal: Domed mineral
Crown: Not screw down. Crown unsigned.
Water resistance: 100m
Price: Approx USD100

Miyota – Real hybrid (manual wind and auto)?

I have known about the presence of Citizen automatic watches for a long time – ever since I started to get interested in watches. However, I have never get down to finding more about them. My first automatic watch was a Seiko diver.

My latest purchase was a Swatch automatic with ETA 2842. I’m in the market for a sporty or action watch. Citizen does have some models that appeal to me. That is when I started to find out more about this brand.

The newer Citizen automatics are using the Miyota 8200 or 8203 movement. Miyota is a subsidiary of Citizen. They are one of the largest movement makers of the world. They supply movements to many other brands.

The Miyota automatic movements, like many ETA automatic movements, support manual winding in addition to rotor winding. However, with the ETA movements, it is not recommended to use the manual winding frequently. It is only recommended to use the manual winding to start the second hand when there is no power reserve and the watch has stopped. This is to avoid causing tension and wear to the movement.

There is no such restriction for the Miyota movement it seems. Some sources suggest winding it between 20 to 30 turns everyday. The rest of the winding will be taken cared of by the rotor when the wearer wears the watch. Apparently, there is a clutch to prevent over-wound. Citizen claims that winding 40 turns will get it fully wound. The rotors in these Miyota movements are uni-directional but there is no complain of winding efficiency.

So it seems the Miyota 8200 has the best of both worlds. It is perfect for people who keep several mechanical watches. One just needs to wind it every morning and it will keep on running without having to wear it.

8200
Jewel count: 21
Diameter : 25.6mm
Height: 5.32mm
VPH: 21600
Quick-set day and dateNon hacking

Citizen and Ball - Deja Vu???

When I saw the Citizen JT3000-59E I can't help but noticing the similiarity to some models from Ball watch. The Citizen JT3000-59E is a model under the Promaster Land series. It is a quartz watch (non Eco-drive) with analog and digital display.

As you can see from the picture the numerals on the watch look almost identical to certain Ball models at first glance. Of course, the Ball uses microgas for illumination whereas the Citizen uses lume.

There is huge difference in prices too. The entry model of Ball watch costs about twice the Citizen JT3000-59E. The one pictured above is a chronometer and should cost even more.

There is no basis for comparison between these two watches. Just can't help but notice the stricking similarities (at first glance) in dial design.

Citizen Millitary watch - another good value watch

While browsing the Citizen USA Web site, I can't help but am attracted by this charming millitary watch. It met my criteria for simplicity, legible dial, and practicality.

Model Number: BM8180-03E
Power reserve: 180 days
Water resistance: 100 meter
Diameter: 37mm (excluding crown) 40.2mm (including crown)
height: 9mm
Case: Screw-back
Crystal: Mineral
Crown: Non screw-down.
Price: USD70 approximately

I will update this entry when I find out more about this watch.

Nighthawk - what a beauty!

I saw this Citizen Nighthawk for the first time a few nights ago. I was so captivated by it's beauty. Usually I don't like complex dials but this one totally got to me. I later found out there are actually quite a number of variants. There is the black dial (like pictured below), black dial with white rim, and brown dial. Here is the spec of this watch:

Movement: B877
Power reserve: 180 Days on full charge
Case: PVD coated stainless steel
Case Back: Screw-down type.
Diameter: 42.5mm / 12.5mm
Crown: Screw-down (signed)
Crystal: anti-glare mineral crystal
Water Resistance: 200meter/660feet

The B877 is an in-house movement. It is powered by solar energy (Citizen Eco-drive technology). On a full charge, it can run for 180 days. The watch can be charge under most lighting - office light, outdoor natural light, desk lamp, etc.

It also supports a second timezone. The second timezone (24hour hand) can be adjusted independently. The hour hand (12hour hand) can be adjusted independently - adjust directly the hour hand and NOT the minute hand. This is useful when crossing timezone. One needs to adjust only the 12hour hand to the local time. This is much better than the Ronda 515.24H quartz movement used in the Victorinox Infantry 2nd Time Zone watch where the 12hour hand cannot be adjusted on its own (must adjust the minute hand to adjust the hour hand).

The PVD coated version of Nighthawk with bracelet (also PVD) costs about USD100 more than the Victorinox Infantry 2nd Time Zone (leather strap). The built of the Nighthawk surpasses that of the Victorinox. It is also PVD coated (there is also a stainless steel version, and titanium version). Its built feels on par with watches costing much more than its price.

It even comes with an inner rotating bezel with the E6B pilots scale. This scale allows calculations like the time to cover a certain distance if the plane is travelling at a certain speed (knot). The fuel consumption given the amount it takes to cover a certain distance and total distance. It can also be used for fraction multiply and division. For all the possible calculations, please read the 'Setting Manual' for this watch on the www.citizenwatch.com.

I noticed this difference between the actual watch that I saw and handled as compared to the one on the official Website (and also on ebay). The difference is the 'NIGHTHAWK' word on the dial and the lack of it on the watch that I saw (also some on ebay). I wonder if this is because there is restriction for using the name 'NIGHTHAWK' in certain countries. I will update this entry when I know more.

Update: The version with 'NIGHTHAWK' on dial is for United States and European countries. The version without is for the rest of the world. Other than this, there should be no difference between the two.


Links
Nice article about the Citizen Eco-drive movement [http://www.geocities.com/watch_crazy/ecodrive/ecodrive.htm]

Poljot Aviator, Aviator, what is the difference?

While I was in the process of finding out more about Poljot pilot watches, I found two similar models but with different branding. They are pictured below:





One is branded a 'Poljot - Aviator', while the other is branded 'Aviator'. The logo is different too. The first one is rated at 100 meter water resistance, while the second one 50 meter. This seems to suggest that the Poljot branded one has screw-down crown, while the other one does not have.

Actually, based on other people's experience, it is better to not have screw-down crown for a manual wind watch. It is a nuissance. Imagine having to unscrew the crown for winding everyday. This can also contribute to wear and tear of the thread.

I read somewhere that after Volmax bought the First Moscow Watch Factory, they created different brands. The brand Poljot is sold exclusively in Russia, while the brand Aviator, Buran, and Sturmanskie is sold outside of Russia. So I think maybe the first watch pictured above is the Russian version while the second one is for market outside Russia.

There is however, another theory. The Poljot branded one may be an old stock. It is made before the demise of the First Moscow Watch Factory. The second one is made after the factory is bought over by Volmax in around 2004. Both watches are made in Moscow by the same factory and possibly same bunch of employees. It is said that the Volmax has increased the QC somewhat. I got this knowledge from a fellow forummer in watchuseek.com. The prices of these watches are identical.

Unitas 6497 movement = humongous watch?

The Unitas 6497 is a reliable, reasonably priced, manual wind movement that is still in production. It is bought over by ETA and is still produced. The Unitas 6497 was designed to be used in a pocket watch. Hence, it's size is bigger than movements designed for wrist watches. This movement is reliable and since hardly anyone uses pocket watches nowadays, it is used in wrist watches. Wrist watches using this movement however, is usually humongous - 45mm and beyond are common. This makes these watches out of bound to people with smaller wrists, or prefer to wear smaller watches.

One watch using this movement, however, is at a resonable diameter of 40mm. It is a model from Trias.



The model name is Trias Apollo. There are two dial colors to choose from (white or black).

Movement: Unitas 6497
Case: Stainless Steel (polished), 40mm diameter (w/o crown), 12mm thick, see-through back
Crystal: Hardened mineral
Water Resistance: 50meter


The Unitas 6497 movement is selling for USD75 on ofrei.com.

Jewel: 17
Power Reserve: 46 hour
Movement size: 36.6mm diameter, 4.5mm height
Beat: 18,000 per hour

The official Trias Web site [link]

This entry will be updated as new information is available.

Update: I have been trying to find other watches using this movement but with a diameter at 40mm or smaller. So far, no luck. Many brands use this movement. For example, Davosa, Steinhart, and so on. However, their diameter usually starts at 42mm and onwards.

Affordable mechanical pilot watches.

While I was surfing, I came across the Poljot Aviator series. Poljot is a Russian brand. Their Aviator series is quite cool. Yes, they have some resemblance to the Fortis. The price however, is almost day and night. I wonder if the Poljot is worth buying and keeping.


This is selling online for USD150 plus shipping and handling.

Poljot Aviator
Model: #2614-1225481
Movement: Poljot 2614
Case: Solid stainless steel, 40 mm diameter (w/o crown) x 12 mm thick, screw down back.
Crystal: Mineral
Water Resistance: 50m

The Poljot 2614 has 17 jewels. It is hand-wound with date function. It is a 21,600 vph movement. Some people claimed it is possible to adjust the movement to about +2 or +3 sec a day. New, un-adjusted movement is between -20 to +40 sec a day. Power reserve is 38 hours after a full wind (sometimes quoted as 42 hours). The movement can be wound clockwise or counter-clockwise. There is no quick set date. To adjust the date, pull the crown to second position, then turn clockwise to adjust the time. The change in date happens in an instant between +-5 mins midnight.

Update: I went to see this watch at a local watch gallery. The salesgirl told me that there is no screw-down crown. So this watch is splash proof only. Do not use this watch during shower and swimming. I also found out from forum that in order to speed up the process of repeatedly advancing the date, it is possible to set the time back and forth between 20.00 and 24.00. I'm trying to understand, at this moment, from other forummers how they deal with the date setting issue. Also, I want to know whether it is safe to set the time back and forth for this particular movement.

Manual for watch equiped with Poljot 2614 [link]

The Poljot Brand
The Poljot brand belongs to the First Moscow Watch Factory. It has a colorful history dating back to the USSR era. That is more than 70 years of history. The watch factory was started by the acquisition of two watch manufacturers in the United States. The tools and equipments of these two manufacturers were shipped to Moscow. Some of the staff were relocated to Moscow too. There, they transferred their skill to the staffs of First Moscow Watch Factory.

In 2004, the First Moscow Watch Factory dissolved. It was sold to Volmax. Volmax is actually started by some previous First Moscow Watch Factory executives. Today, certain Poljot models are also manufactured in Kiev, Ukraine by Kiev Watch Factory and in Hong Kong by Winsky International, Inc.

The Poljot brand is only sold in Russia. Internationally, they were marketed as Aviator (like the one pictured above), Buran, and Shturmanskie. However, the eStore on the official Poljot Web site will be operational soon. Some watches are already available in the catalogue, eventhough purchase is not possible until they get the payment gateway thingy settled. The Poljot branded watches are available for purchase via the eStore. For example, the following humongous (45mm diameter) manual wind:



For detailed information, please read the Poljot entry in Wikipedia [link]
For milestones and timeline, please read the Poljot official Web site [link]


FORTIS Flieger Automatic selling for approximate USD440.

Fortis Flieger
Model: 595.10.41L
Movement: ETA 2824-2
Case: 40mm stainless steel
Water Resistance: 200m

The ETA 2824-2 movement is a proven workhorse. It is a 28K high beat movement with date function.

Bauhaus design... Totally in love with it!

I'm totally in love with the Bauhaus design. The first moment I saw the picture of Stowa Antea, I'm in love with it.



My next watch is likely to be a Bauhaus design. There are more than one brand implementing this design.

I have come across a watch parts seller selling the stick hands (like above) for USD2!





Maybe I can consider getting an old Longines or Omega manual wind watch from ebay, take out the old dial, and replace it with a spanking new Bauhaus design dial and hands. I'll update this post as I find out more about the viability of this option. :)

What watch do you wear when you are feeling down?

What watch do you wear when you are feeling down? I have had a hard fall these few days. The department is experiencing a cost freeze. Another department is being allocated a lot of cash. Our department is discontinuing the contracts of contracted staffs. Lots of these contracted staff are being absorbed by the other department. Not only these people are being given permanent position. They are also promoted several levels ahead of me. People who have been working on the same project as me is now several steps ahead of me in the corporate ladder. What luck. Sigh...

Do they make a watch with a frown face on the dial? I bet they do. Feel free to comment and maybe post a picture of watches you are wearing when you are feeling down. Maybe I can take cover under my hobby for a while.

Replies that I got:


Yes Cozmo